I’m generally pretty jaded when it comes to new pattern releases, as most patterns seem to be more of the same old silhouettes we always see. Not so with Vogue 1645, a sewing pattern for a gorgeous asymmetric Rachel Comey jumpsuit. This pattern reminded me of the pleasures of a really well-drafted designer pattern - my favorite part is it has a really unique construction where the seams and darts flow directly into the pockets, creating a lovely shapely silhouette (even on me, with my straight boyish build).
Fit alterations
The pattern fit pretty much straight out of the envelope, with no excessive ease (imagine! A Big 4 pattern that isn’t swimming in ease!!!). I cut the small and made only a few (really minor) fit alterations:
Pinched out 1/4 inch at the neckline to reducing gaping and account for my small bust (see pic below)
Turned up 1 1/4 inch at the hem (instead of the 1 3/4 inch recommended by the pattern)
To my surprise, I found that I didn’t need to make my usual straight back adjustment or lower the belt placement to account for my long torso. These are adjustments I typically have to make with Vogue patterns, but I did not need them here.
I pinched out 1/2 inch at the neckline and made a small bust adjustment, pivoting at the dart. For some reason, when I pinched the excess out in my muslin, it didn’t work to just pinch out a wedge straight from the neckline to the bust dart, and that’s why I ended up with the odd ‘kinked’ adjustment above.
Construction details
I generally followed all of the construction steps in the pattern instructions, with a few minor changes:
I did not bind my seam allowances as the pattern suggests (as much as I love a bound seam, I just didn’t have the time or energy to do that here, so I serged them instead).
I catch-stitched the facing to prevent it from flipping out
I under-stitched the pockets to stop them from peaking out (particularly important for me because I cut the pocket out of lining fabric in a contrasting color)
I added a snap to secure the neckline
Overall the pattern instructions are clear, but some of the illustrations are a bit confusing. I particularly found the construction of the pockets and side seams to be confusing, so I made a video that walks through each step of the construction of the pockets, in case it is helpful to anyone else who is puzzled by the pattern instructions.
I know that other sewists who have made this jumpsuit thought that the neckline needed to be topstitched and/or needed twill tape to keep the edge crisp, but I didn’t have that issue - I found that having an interfaced facing and catchstitching it down was enough to keep the edge crisp and secured in place.
One thing to bear in mind - the armhole is low enough to show bra straps. If I made this again, I would cut the armhole piece wider so I can wear this jumpsuit without a shirt underneath.
Final verdict
I absolutely ADORE this jumpsuit. I love everything about it - the shapely seaming that gives me the illusion of a waist-to-hip ratio, the flattering tapered legs that are still roomy enough to be comfortable while lounging on the couch, the luscious soft linen that conveniently hides all of my catchstitching - I could wax rhapsodic for days about this jumpsuit. I literally would not change a single thing about this garment, and I rarely think that about anything I sew.
As an aside: if you’re listening Vogue/McCall’s/Butterick/Simplicity, THIS is what we sewists want to see from you and THIS is how you can stay competitive against indie pattern designers. We want to see more high-end designer patterns with really unique silhouettes and construction details. If you aren’t going to sell your patterns at sale prices any more (as is rumored to be the case in the internet forums), then you will need to give us all a good reason to pay $20+ per pattern, instead of turning to other pattern companies that sell their patterns for $6. Please know that there is a community of sewists out there who appreciate high-quality, advanced designer patterns and would be willing to pay for it - if you keep offering them.
What do you think of Vogue 1645? Let me know in the comments!
